{"id":1333,"date":"2021-02-13T23:27:39","date_gmt":"2021-02-13T23:27:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mehach.com\/?p=1333"},"modified":"2021-02-13T23:27:41","modified_gmt":"2021-02-13T23:27:41","slug":"retinol-vs-retinoids-a313-differin-a-passioni-triacneal-the-ordinary","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mehach.com\/en\/retinol-vs-retinoids-a313-differin-a-passioni-triacneal-the-ordinary-1333\/","title":{"rendered":"Retinol vs. Retinoids: A313, Differin, A-Passioni, Triacn\u00e9al, The Ordinary"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

What is retinol?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Since humans are unable to synthesize vitamin A, they must obtain it from food, either in the form of retinolor<\/em> esters. Retinol does not act directly on the target cell; it requires intracellular enzymatic transformations to reach its biologically active form, retinoic acid<\/strong>. Several research studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of retinoic acid on acne, psoriasis and skin aging<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Retinol vs. Retinoid<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

We also talk about Retinoids (Retinoid), which includes under this name all derivatives of retinoic acid<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thus, retinol is a retinoid, but a retinoid is not necessarily retinol, because it can be an ester, tretinoin, granactive…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Types of Retinoids<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

It is important to understand that not everyone spreads retinoic acid directly on the skin. Because it is a highly concentrated product and available only by prescription. This is why most products available to the general public use Retinoids, retinoic acid derivatives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Depending on the type of retinoid, retinoic acid is obtained after 1 or 3 conversions, i.e. the esters convert to retinol, which then convert to retinaldehyde, which finally convert to retinonic acid. With each conversion, one loses 10 times in concentration. For example, an ester concentrated at 10%, after 3 conversions, is equivalent to about 0.01% concentration of retinonic acid.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Conversion” path :<\/strong>
Ester (retinol propionate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate)
=> Retinol
=> Retinaldehyd and Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (retinoic acid ester)
=> Retinoic acid (retinoic acid\/tretinoin)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thus, retinoid <\/em>in ester form is the mildest, and the retinoic acid form is the strongest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We have other retinoids such as Adapalene and Tazorac which give a factor of 5: 0.<\/strong> 1% in Adapalene or Tazorac is equivalent to 0.025% in retinoic acid, so by integrating these retinoids, we have, in increasing order of potency :<\/strong> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ester (retinol propionate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate)
=> Retinol
=> Retinaldehyd and Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (retinoic acid ester)
=> Adapalene and Tazorac
=> Retinoic acid (retinoic acid\/tretinoin)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To compare the power of each retinoid, blogger Caroline Hirons uses a very simple example: coffee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Latte (ester)
=> Cappuccino (Retinol)
=> Espresso (Retinaldehyd, Adapalene, Tazorac)
=> Double espresso (Tretinoin)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I have seen a lot of before\/after pictures with incredible results: cystic acne disappeared, wrinkles disappeared… but I have also seen a lot of the opposite: skin with a few poor wrinkles that became all red and full of pustules… so you have to get your skin used to it, starting with very soft products (ester), to Retinol, then Retinaldehyd and finally the Tretinoin graal. From one stage to the next, it takes 4 to 6 or even 1 year. And even those who switch to Tretinoin must start with a small concentration and then slowly increase. In addition, as soon as you use the retinoids, you must spread sun cream<\/strong> on your skin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now that I’ve explained all this, I’m going to give you my opinion on some top products (I’ve tested some of them)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ester<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The famous A313 cream<\/strong> is one of them. It is sold freely in pharmacies and Americans are spreading the word to buy some from us in France because it is cheap and available over the counter. Honestly, I have no opinion on this product because all the reviews I read are rather negative. The texture is not pleasant (too oily) and as it is a very soft retinoid, people don’t see any effect and throw it away very quickly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Retinol<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I used 2 products :<\/p>\n\n\n\n