Recently, I came across the videos and stories of the famous New York dermatologist Shereene Idriss (Instagram, YouTube, personal website). She’s really great, she’s got a bombastic skin (cf. her video made for Allure). As she is of Lebanese origin and went to French high school, she knows all kinds of products, many of them accessible in Europe, I strongly recommend you to follow her.
His care routine boils down to this:
- Make-up Remover
- *chemical* exfoliation (2-3 times a week)
- Moisturizing cream
I have the same routine if not more 🙂 but instead of using chemical exfoliation, I have so far only used physical exfoliation (with grain, or that turns into grains).
For the “chemical exfoliation” part, she keeps recommending Lotion P50 from Biologique Recherche. It’s a chemical exfoliator I’ve heard about for years (following Caroline Hirons and Skinandtonics), but I still needed a little boost to get started.
It should be noted that in North America, the use of acids and retinols for the face is more popular than in Europe. And using AHA, BHA… doesn’t scare anyone. Since my Hydrafacial treatment was a great success, I concluded that exfoliation with AHA/BHA was particularly suitable for me and my baby’s skin after the treatment.
So I went looking for a P50 lotion in Montreal. The brand Biologique Recherche is a French brand but very few French people have heard of it because it is exclusively distributed through spas. To buy their products, you need to be advised by a beautician. In Montreal, I found it at P H Santé Beauté, a spa that also belongs to naturopaths.
Organic Research Lotion P50
Made famous by a famous facialist and then famous bloggers, stars are also starting to use it. Despite its high price tag, a select distribution network, this exfoliant nicknamed “Jesus in a bottle” has followers all over the world.
30 years of reflection and experience have made it possible to develop this unique program. P50 Lotions accompany the natural process of exfoliation of the epidermis and thus the reconstruction of the epidermal shield. The reinforced epidermis can then fully exercise its protective functions and its formidable self-regenerating potential
The original version, created in 1970 continent of phenol, an ingredient banned in Europe. It is still found in the United States, but for my sensitive skin, I cross it off my list right away.
There are other versions (Lotion P50, P50V, P50W, P50 PIGM 400) corresponding to all skin types and it is best to ask the saleswomen to find out which version suits you best.
For my part, I got the P50 PIGM 400 version, because the saleswoman found that I still had spots and she didn’t want to give me a lower dosage version – because it wouldn’t have any impact on my skin otherwise. The name P50 refers to the spectacular results seen after 50 days of use.
- Niacinamide : 3rd ingredient after water and glycerin (hydration), niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin of B3, ultra moisturizing. It improves the barrier function of the skin by stimulating the synthesis of lipids, limiting water loss and fighting against dryness. It stimulates the production of collagen (reduces wrinkles), has an anti-inflammatory effect (against acne), reduces and regulates the production of melanin (superb for spots)
- Acombination of AHA, BHA and PHA : Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids, Australian Finger Lime Extract, Beta-Hydroxy-Acids, Poly-Hydroxy Acid, Phytic Acid, Levulinic Acid – supposed to rid the skin of deep-seated impurities and dead cells
- and other ingredients I don’t understand the use of 🙂 (I’m not a pro at reading ingredients sorry)
Then, this exfoliant must be used with a cotton pad. I know that some youtubeuses use it by spreading it on the face like a serum, NOOOOON! When you apply the product with a cotton pad, it is applied more evenly. Whereas if you simply spread it on your face, the first surface (usually the cheeks) will receive more product, and may react much more.
More info about the application here
During the 1st week, it is advisable to use morning and evening, with a wet cotton pad. Afterwards, one can use with a dry cotton.
Directions for use: The first week, soak the Lotion P50 PIGM 400 on moistened cotton pads with water and apply to the face, neck and décolleté without rubbing by tapping. The following days, soak Lotion P50 PIGM 400 on dry cotton pads
But with my sensitive skin and my tendency to purge every drop of AHA, I decide to take it easy, using only in the evening, every 3 days with a damp cotton pad. I leave for 30 seconds, then rinse with thermal water.
The smell is much less “vinegary” than I thought it would be, and the tingling sensation is minimal, but this may be related to my very careful use. I had less reaction than with the Glow Tonic from Pixi
Note: When using a chemical exfoliator like this, sunscreen is non-negotiable!
S/s: the brand recommends daily use even for their most powerful exfoliator, but I follow the advice of Dr. Shereene Idriss who indicates use 2-3 times a week only.
In spite of a very reasonable and spaced use, I had a mini purge from the first days. But nothing too serious, a few white mini-buttons, easy to get rid of, and leaving no trace.
On the other hand, areas of skin that don’t purge are really smooth, glowing, and pores look clean and tight – the very next day.
The beautician also gave me two samples of the “Living Mask” of the same brand to put on the pimples all night long (it smells very bad) to make the pimples go away faster. Honestly, I find that this Living Mask is less effective than my Mario Badescu drying lotion
Here is the before/after picture (2 weeks of use – i.e. only 5 times). In the “before” photo, it was one week after the Hydrafacial treatment, I was already very happy with the condition of my skin.
To find out where to buy, look at: www.biologique-recherche.com/en-us/retail/storelist/
Be careful, I no longer put the address of the Ambassade de la Beauté in Paris (official store of the brand) because it is very badly rated on Google Maps, there are bad reviews as the saleswomen gave bad advice and customers leave with overpriced, not adapted products.
For your information, my 150ml bottle cost me 95$CA in Montreal.