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Recycled cashmere is often presented as an eco-friendly alternative to traditional cashmere. While being in favor of recycling initiatives, I cannot ignore a major issue: the price. Indeed, while the quality of recycled cashmere is objectively inferior, brands dare to market it at prices similar to new cashmere, a practice that is difficult to justify.
The Inevitable Deterioration of Fibers
The recycling process itself is the primary source of quality degradation. A crucial and little-known aspect is that quality cashmere must have a fiber length of more than 35 millimeters to guarantee its exceptional properties (less pilling, softer touch, more resistant product). However, the recycling process, which involves the mechanical grinding of old sweaters, inevitably fragments these precious fibers. This aggressive transformation significantly reduces their initial length while weakening their natural structure. The intrinsic properties that make cashmere’s reputation are thus irremediably compromised from the very first steps of recycling.
Compromised Durability
The shortened and weakened fibers of recycled cashmere directly impact the longevity of the final product. Garments made from this material show an increased tendency to pill and deform more quickly over time. The resistance to daily wear is considerably reduced, which shortens the garment’s lifespan. This is why recycled cashmere brands add a certain percentage of virgin cashmere in the composition, but this is not enough to remedy these drawbacks.
A Questionable Pricing Policy
Despite these obvious quality defects and a theoretically less expensive raw material since it comes from recycling, brands often position recycled cashmere in the same price range as new cashmere. This commercial strategy raises questions: why should consumers pay the same price for a product of inferior quality? While the recycling process certainly incurs costs, these do not justify such price equivalence. A pricing position more consistent with the actual quality of the product would better encourage the adoption of this ecological alternative.
Recycling: Far from the ideal Solution
Paradoxically, the promise of recycling can sometimes encourage unsustainable consumption behaviors. Many consumers dispose of their cashmere garments more easily, feeling less guilty with the idea that they will be recycled. However, the true ecological approach would be to extend the lifespan of these quality pieces.
Simple solutions exist: repair by a professional can give a damaged sweater a second life, while using a fabric shaver helps maintain the garment’s new appearance. These maintenance practices, much less expensive than a new sweater (count 30 to 40 euros for a hole repair, and 10 euros for a fabric shaver), preserve the original quality of cashmere’s long fibers and represent a truly sustainable approach.
Moreover, recycling only concerns 100% cashmere products. Noble blends like cashmere and silk, although of excellent quality, will not be recycled because the composition percentage varies from one product to another, and to maintain relatively homogeneous quality, recycling only concerns 100% cashmere. Thus, if you send your cashmere and silk sweater for recycling, at best it will be resold, at worst it will be ground up and used for less noble purposes such as insulation.
Conclusion
Although recycled cashmere represents a commendable initiative for environmental sustainability, its qualitative limitations make it a significantly inferior alternative to traditional cashmere. While environmental commitment is essential, it should not serve as a pretext for an unjustified pricing policy or encourage disposable consumption. The true ecological approach consists primarily of investing in quality pieces and maintaining them properly.
To truly encourage more sustainable fashion, brands should adopt fairer pricing, reflecting the real quality of the product, while educating consumers about best practices for maintaining and preserving their cashmere garments. As environmentally conscious consumers, we have the right to demand not only ecological products but also an honest and transparent quality-price ratio, as well as practical advice for extending the lifespan of our garments.
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