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I remember every pearl jewelry piece I’ve had. Because I’ve lost them all. Each time, 2 hours of intensive searching would follow before concluding that (1) either I accidentally threw it away or (2) it fell from my hand/neck due to a defective clasp.
According to Hindu astrology, I must wear pearls until 20xx, but I told myself I would lose them again and completely lost interest in the subject until my Vietnamese jeweler showed me his Japanese Akoya pearl collection (saltwater pearls). Each mollusk produces only one or two pearls at a time (unlike 20-30 freshwater pearls), hence the very high price.
It made me want them, but I didn’t want to pay for Akoya pearls only to lose them afterwards. I preferred freshwater pearls. But how to find jewelry in my size? Everything seems very big and bulky to me. I remembered the Bijorhca salon where I saw pearls sold by the meter. In Turkey, I saw these freshwater pearl strands again, between 40cm and 50cm. Since it was in a cheap store, the pearls weren’t very round and had many flaws, but you should know that you can buy good quality strands of pearls from professionals.
This is often how jewelers make profit; because making pearl necklaces doesn’t require much dexterity (it’s just tedious), there’s no point in buying ready-made necklaces. Plus, buying a strand of pearls means the pearls are already drilled (so less work). Generally, these pre-drilled pearls have some flaws, which is why they weren’t kept intact for pendants, for example. The holes will be made where there are flaws. This allows to have cheaper pearls while still having a beautiful visible part.
In 2022, my other Vietnamese jeweler bought several strands of freshwater pearls and made custom bracelets from them. They were freshwater pearls, rather round, champagne colored. Unfortunately, she wasn’t very conscientious and put pearls in random order instead of putting pearls of the same color side by side, which annoyed me every time I looked at my bracelet. Anyway, losing this bracelet didn’t affect me as much as losing the oxidized silver bracelet in the photo.
This year, I decided to make my own pearl bracelet, so I can put the pearls in the right order and set aside the pearls I don’t think are beautiful enough. I bought freshwater pearls by the strand from Cookson (labeled as round on the site but they’re more egg-shaped), 4-4.50 mm, natural white, 40 cm strand, almost no flaws
I bought the necessary materials: thread, clasps and 925 silver rings from Cookson, two Pandora silver charms on Vinted (€14) and off we go!
Where pearls come from (source)
All shelled mollusks are capable of producing pearls composed of calcium carbonate. However, their quality will depend on their species, as well as the temperature, salinity and nutrition conditions of the animal. The most beautiful pearls used in jewelry generally come from marine oysters from warm regions, on both sides of the equator.
The famous theory of the grain of sand as a trigger for biomineralization, widespread as it may be, is not based on any scientific reality, just as no grain of sand has ever been found inside a pearl.
While the true causes of pearl formation remain poorly understood (virus? bacteria?), any pearl formation results from a displacement of epithelial cells secreting the shell inside the connective tissue of the mollusk’s mantle.
Since the Japanese found a way to obtain cultured pearls, almost no one has access to natural pearls anymore – because it’s super expensive. I had two natural pearls, while eating oysters hahaha but they weren’t very big, nor beautiful, nor round, too bad!
How to choose your pearls?
There are 7 criteria that determine the value of pearls.
Luster: This is the most important criterion for evaluating a pearl. It depends on the quality of the nacre: the thicker and denser it is, the more strongly the pearl reflects light. Akoya pearls have a cold metallic shine, while South Sea pearls have a soft, satiny glow. A dull pearl without luster has very low value.
Shape: The round shape is the most prized and rarest. Other shapes (oval, drop, baroque…) are also sought after, especially if they are well symmetrical. Irregular shapes can appeal to certain collectors.
Color: It includes three layers: the base color, overtones, and iridescence. Each type of pearl (Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea, Freshwater) has its characteristic colors, some being rarer and therefore more precious.
Surface: No pearl is perfect. Imperfections (spots, irregularities) influence value according to their size, quantity, and location. A pearl that is almost smooth or with a well-placed flaw (hidden during drilling or mounting) will have more value.
Size: The bigger a pearl is, the more precious it is. However, the maximum size varies according to the type of pearl: a 9.5 mm Akoya is rare and can cost more than an 11 mm South Sea pearl.
Origin: Natural pearls are extremely rare and expensive. Most are cultured pearls. Freshwater pearls are cheaper because they are produced in larger quantities (up to 30 per mollusk), while saltwater pearls are generally more brilliant, rounder, and therefore more valued.
Matching (Uniformity): For jewelry composed of several pearls (necklaces, earrings), homogeneity in color, shape, size, and luster is crucial. Perfect harmony between pearls significantly increases their value.
My bracelet
When I saw this Pandora x Disney charm, I knew I absolutely had to incorporate it into my bracelet; it’s very “Snow White” but it goes wonderfully well together!
I found another charm in the same theme. It’s a special Pandora collection, released in 2023 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Charm Club, in sterling silver, 14k rose gold plated, with a small lab diamond and a real freshwater pearl. The charm cost €69 new but I got it on Vinted for €15.
At first, I wanted to put a silver clasp on my bracelet but when I read that you had to remove it every time you touch a chemical product (cream, soap, dish soap…), I thought elastic thread would be more practical. So I also bought Magic Stretch elastic thread 0.5mm in diameter.
I was too eager to test the materials so I made the bracelet without waiting for the charm to arrive. The knot in the thread is hidden by a 925 silver crimp ring. The hole in the pearls is too small to hide the knot unfortunately. The thread diameter is perfect, the pearls don’t move easily on this thread. I tried to pass 2 threads through but without success, I hope one thread will be strong enough.
When the charms arrived, I undid the bracelet and attached the charms. I tested both. I think the shell will be better suited to the theme. The apple will be even prettier with larger pearls. What do you think?
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